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What to choose: Ghorepani Trek versus the Annapurna Base Camp Trek? https://www.insidehimalayas.com/what-to-choose-ghorepani-trek-versus-the-annapurna-base-camp-trek/
https://www.insidehimalayas.com/?p=9642
<p>Nepal is known to be one of the world’s best-hiking destinations. Not only do you have access to the mighty Himalayas, but also to numberless&nbsp; other peaks, routes, and surprising hiking trails. Even the popular regions of Everest and Annapurna feature so many options that you don’t know what you choose unless you’ve done a thorough research.</p><p>The Ghorepani Trek and the Annapurna Base Camp Trek are perhaps the two most popular treks near Pokhara in the Annapurna Conservation Area. However, while both treks are enjoyable, they differ in some key ways. So how do you decide which route fits you better? In that case, it’s helpful to compare the two treks based on the difference in route, altitude, and the minimum time frame needed for each trek.</p><p>The <strong><a href=”https://royalmt.com.np/experiences/annapurna-ghorepani-trek/” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener”>Ghorepani Trek</a> </strong>is also called the Poon Hill Trek or the Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek, as hiking to Poon Hill at sunrise is one of its highlights. The trek<strong> </strong>starts in Nayapul (45 km from Pokhara, a one hour drive). Then, it follows a clockwise circuit going up through the villages of Birethanti, Ulleri, and Ghorepani (hence the name of the trek). On the second day, you can hike to the top of Poon Hill (hence the second name of the trek), where you can admire the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Ranges. From Ghorepani village follows a succession of steep ups and downs passes through other traditional villages, such as Tadapani, Ghandruk, and Syauli Bajar. Finally, the trek ends back in Nayapul.</p><p>On the contrary, <strong><a rel=”noreferrer noopener” href=”https://royalmt.com.np/experiences/annapurna-base-camp-trek/” target=”_blank”>Annapurna Base Camp Trek</a> </strong>starts in Syauli Bajar (the ending point&nbsp;of Ghorepani Trek). Then, it goes up along the Modi Khola Valley via traditional villages such as Ghandruk, Chinu (Jhinundanda), Chomrong, Bamboo, Doban, and Deurali. After that, the route climbs further to Machhapuchare Base Camp and finally to Annapurna Base Camp. You must return on the same road from Annapurna BC to Chhomrong village on your way back. From there, you can backtrack to Syauli Bajar. Or you can trek via the villages on the eastern side of the Modi Khola Valley – such as Landruk, Dhampus, and Phedi, extending the trek by a couple more days.</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-1024×768.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9647″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-1024×768.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-300×225.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-895×671.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-685×514.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-210×158.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_133/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-133×100.jpg 133w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_112/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-112×84.jpg 112w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri.jpg 1200w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-1024×768.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-1024×768.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9647″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-1024×768.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-300×225.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-895×671.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-685×514.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-210×158.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_133/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-133×100.jpg 133w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_112/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri-112×84.jpg 112w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/04.-Crossing-the-bridge-towards-Ulleri.jpg 1200w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></figure><h3>A trekking circuit or a backtracking route?</h3><p>One of the main differences between Ghorepani Trek and Annapurna BC Trek is the configuration of the route. Ghorepani Trek is a circuit, usually trekked clockwise. So you will see different places daily, with expansive views of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri Ranges from Poon Hill and Upper Ghorepani village. The only section you backtrack is from Birethanti to Nayapul, and is less than three kilometers. Still, this section can be avoided if you take a jeep back from Syauli Bajar directly to Pokhara.</p><p>The Annapurna BC Trek usually follows the same route on the way up and back down. This means you only go up when you go to the base camps, and when you return, you only go down. You will also see the same places as you go up and back. Also, you’ll be limited to the views of the Modi Khola Valley and the villages alongside it. Nonetheless, once you get to the high-altitude base camps, you will be right in the middle of the Himalayas, where you will be surrounded by amazing snow-capped peaks (something you won’t experience on Ghorepani Trek). On the return, you can bring a bit of variety to the standard backtracking trail if you choose to trek through the various traditional villages back to Pokhara.</p><h3>A couple of days versus a week or even more</h3><p>The Ghorepani Trek usually takes four to five days for someone of an average physical condition. If you want a short trek to see how it feels to trek in the Himalayas, this is a good choice. If you want a longer trek, the Annapurna BC Trek takes seven to eight days, and you need to reserve more time for it.</p><p>If you can afford even more time, a combo option between the two treks would give you the best of both worlds. Start in Nayapul and go clockwise along the Ghorepani Trek to Ghandruk. From there, head to Chomrong and the Annapurna BC. Once you backtrack from the base camp to Chomrong, choose to return to Pokhara through traditional villages.&nbsp;</p><p>Depending on your physical condition, this combo-extended version between the two treks might take between ten days to two weeks. Still, it’s all worth the effort if you have enough time. And you don’t need to pick favourites either. You get to cover both treks in the extended version and see the best from both routes.</p><h3>Lower altitude villages or higher altitude mountains</h3><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-1024×768.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9643″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-1024×768.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-300×225.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-895×671.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-685×514.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-210×158.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_133/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-133×100.jpg 133w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_112/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-112×84.jpg 112w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village.jpg 1200w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-1024×768.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-1024×768.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9643″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-1024×768.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-300×225.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-895×671.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-685×514.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-210×158.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_133/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-133×100.jpg 133w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_112/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village-112×84.jpg 112w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/11.-Annapurna-views-on-the-way-from-Ghandruk-to-Chinu-village.jpg 1200w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></figure><p>If you haven’t trekked at higher altitudes and don’t know how your body reacts, keep in mind that over 3000 meters, your body might start to face altitude sickness. Though Poon Hill is at 3193 meters high, it is just short one-hour push, and then you are back at the average altitude of Ghorepani Trek, which goes around 2500 meters. You won’t encounter any higher altitudes than that on Ghorepani Trek.&nbsp;</p><p>Annapurna BC lies at 4130 meters high, though. It might be tempting to climb up there quickly, but make sure not to rush and take time to acclimatize in the lower villages along the trek. If you know you have had altitude sickness before, consider going as slow as possible and only if you feel good, without risking your health. This is another reason the combo version between Ghorepani Trek and Annapurna BC Trek is a good choice. You have enough time for acclimatization and don’t take as many risks while climbing to higher camps.</p><h4><strong><em>Want to plan a trip to either of these routes? Discover detailed itineraries for the Ghorepani and ABC treks here:</em></strong></h4> Thu, 20 Oct 2022 08:35:57 +0000 Iuliana Marchian
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https://www.insidehimalayas.com/what-to-choose-ghorepani-trek-versus-the-annapurna-base-camp-trek/
Adventure
Nature
Nepal
abc trekking
Ghorepani
Poon Hill trek


A photographer’s guide to Kathmandu Valley https://www.insidehimalayas.com/a-photographers-guide-to-kathmandu-valley/
https://www.insidehimalayas.com/?p=9580
<p>As a photographer or a photo enthusiast, what is it that you look for when traveling to a destination? Lifestyle? Culture? Architecture? Or a <em>je ne sais quoi</em> that you need to feel?</p><p>Regardless of what you’re looking for, Kathmandu Valley has the charisma to tempt the&nbsp; photographer in you to spend hours exploring the city with a camera dangling around your neck.&nbsp;</p><p>At the foothills of the Himalayas, the Kathmandu Valley comprises the three ancient cities of Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. The valley is full of serpentine alleys, bustling markets, beautiful temples, a welcome environment with rich culture and unforgettable history. Filled with folklore and mythology,Kathmandu Valley is a place that walks the fine line between tradition and modernity. To make life easier for the photographer in you, here are five of the most scenic and photo-worthy places to visit in Kathmandu Valley.</p><h3><strong>Hiking to Jamacho (for Nature lovers):</strong></h3><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_683/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-683×1024.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9581″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_683/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-683×1024.jpg 683w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-200×300.jpg 200w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1707/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-scaled.jpg 1707w” sizes=”(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-683×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_683/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-683×1024.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9581″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_683/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-683×1024.jpg 683w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-200×300.jpg 200w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1707/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Jamacho-NCTTM-1126-scaled.jpg 1707w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px”><figcaption><em>Photo: Pramin Manandhar</em></figcaption></figure><p>Located in the northwest corner of Kathmandu Valley, a short 3-hour hike (depending on one’s pace) walking past thick woods of rhododendron, oak, and pine leads to a small Buddhist monastery on the hills of Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park. The spot is at an elevation of around 2,100m from sea level, and is a great route for beginner hikers.</p><p>Photographers on the hunt for&nbsp; nature will especially appreciate Jamacho with its magnificent views of the entire Kathmandu valley and jaw-dropping panoramic views of nearby mountain ranges. The melody of the leaves in the forest with birds chirping motivates every step you take and a refreshing breeze guides you throughout the trail. In this short and sweet hike walking past nature, the person shooting pictures along the route won’t know when they arrived at the top.</p><h3><strong>Experiencing Ason Bazar (for street and lifestyle enthusiasts)</strong></h3><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1709/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Pmx-6-scaled.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9589″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1709/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Pmx-6-scaled.jpg 1709w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Pmx-6-200×300.jpg 200w” sizes=”(max-width: 1709px) 100vw, 1709px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Pmx-6-scaled.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1709/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Pmx-6-scaled.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9589″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1709/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Pmx-6-scaled.jpg 1709w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/Pmx-6-200×300.jpg 200w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1709px) 100vw, 1709px”><figcaption><em>Photo: Pramin Manandhar</em></figcaption></figure><p>Throughout the years, Kathmandu has changed a lot, both physically and culturally. However, one place that still retains its original historic vibe is the bustling and crowded street markets trailing from Ason Bazar to Basantapur Durbar Square through Indra Chowk. There are a lot of rich passageways in this historic market that lead to an unfiltered look into the local lifestyle, products, and cuisine. All of which you can witness within the countless street shops in an infinite variety.&nbsp;</p><p>Derivative of the word ‘Ansaa’, which literally means ‘just there’ in Newari. Due to its convenient location in the center of the town, the bazaar is known to be a place where one can purchase anything from toiletries to dried meat to slippers and footwear.</p><p>In the early morning, Ason is a vegetable and meat market, and as the day goes, little shops all around begin to open. The vendors display their wares outside, near their doors. The entire area is a vibrant and crowded bazaar from dusk till dawn as this is where the town’s residents and vendors congregate. Besides the numerous shops displaying a vast array of goods, you will also find an ancient pagoda-style temple dedicated to the Annapurna Ajima (Goddess of Abundance) at one corner.&nbsp;</p><p>Though the massive earthquake of 2015 left its mark on many old traditional houses, the lifestyle in Ason remains the same. Ason Bazar is famous for both its traditional and cultural way of life, and photographers who love to capture the street and its characters must certainly give it a visit.</p><h3><strong>Aarti at Pashupatinath (cultural enthusiasts)</strong></h3><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-1024×684.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9602″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-1024×684.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-300×200.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-1536×1026.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_2048/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-2048×1368.jpg 2048w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-1024×684.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-1024×684.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9602″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-1024×684.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-300×200.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-1536×1026.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_2048/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/DSC03996-2048×1368.jpg 2048w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></figure><p>The Kathmandu Valley exudes a mystical and spiritual air, which attracts pilgrims from all over the world. The Pashupatinath temple, located along the western bank of river Bagmati, is a manifestation of Lord Shiva, and is considered to be one of the most sacred places of worship of the Hindu deity. Dating back to 400 A.D. it is a masterpiece of Hindu architecture, and is embellished with beautiful carvings and sculptures.</p><p>Of various pujas and rituals of cremation performed at the ghats of Bagmati river, the evening ‘Aarati’ attracts massive crowds of people assembled on the temple’s eastern side to witness priests singing hymns of god, burning of incense, chanting of Vedic mantras, playing of classical instruments, ringing of bells, and lighting of oil lamps. The Aarati is performed at 6 pm every day, a ceremony that everyone can participate in.&nbsp;</p><p>Despite the years, Pashupatinath remains the same. The ambience of the holy place is a gold mine for culturally enthusiastic photographers who love to dwell in legends and mythologies. Also, take part in the ritual of ‘Aarati’, and listen to stories of holy men or ‘Sadhus,’ but be ready to pay a little because they will charge you if you want to photograph them.&nbsp;</p><p>There are many things that can stand out to a photographer in Pashupati. From witnessing the last rites of the Hindus being performed at the ghats, exploring the forest uphill which also has deer park, and observing devotees arriving from different places in different colors.</p><h3><strong>Exploring traditional Rudra Varna Mahavihar courtyards (for art and artisan enthusiasts)</strong></h3><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1024×678.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9585″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1024×678.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-300×199.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1536×1017.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_2048/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-2048×1356.jpg 2048w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-895×593.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-685×454.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-210×139.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_151/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-151×100.jpg 151w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_127/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-127×84.jpg 127w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1473/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1473×975.jpg 1473w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1985/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1985×1314.jpg 1985w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1024×678.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1024×678.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9585″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1024×678.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-300×199.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1536×1017.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_2048/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-2048×1356.jpg 2048w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-895×593.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-685×454.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-210×139.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_151/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-151×100.jpg 151w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_127/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-127×84.jpg 127w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1473/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1473×975.jpg 1473w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1985/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/LAB_9879-PMx-Copy-1985×1314.jpg 1985w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”><figcaption><em>Photo: Pramin Manandhar</em></figcaption></figure><p>Located south of Patan Durbar Square, the Newar Buddhist Monastery is known locally as Rudra Varna Mahavihar and contains 3 courtyards, each having its own interesting and unique features. Commonly referred to as Uku Baha, this monastery is an incredible site to reflect on the history of Buddhism, Newar society, and the artisanal brass craftworks of Patan.&nbsp;</p><p>Built in the mid-17th century, the courtyard is teeming with “chaityas” and bronze statues of all shapes and sizes. There are massive bronze structure of Garudas, Lions, Elephants, Monkeys, Doves, Peacocks, Bajras (thunderbolts), figures of praying worshippers, and a statue of Juddha Shamsher Rana, who had granted restoration aid for the temple’s repair after the 1934 earthquake. Along the corners of the courtyard, which is lined with oil lamp railings, there are different bronze sculptures of monkeys clutching food in their hands. The main shrine is housed in a building with a two-tiered roof, and the entire temple complex is square in shape. Its majestic gate that marks the outer courtyard has two statues of lions with flags on top and two black stone lions guarding the gateway.</p><p>Photographers who are into handcrafted art and statues, living cultures, and preserved history,will find the place mesmerizing and enjoy finding a muse along every corner.&nbsp;</p><p>While the temple is not on the main street and has to be searched in the back alleys of Patan, the place is worth a visit, especially for the bronze pieces inside and the ‘toran’ hung on the top of the entrance of the temple. To have a glimpse of the entire temple, be there around 3.30 pm when a priest comes to open it and conduct the daily puja. &nbsp;</p><h3><strong>Dattatreya Temple in Bhaktapur Durbar Square (for architecture enthusiasts)</strong></h3><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1024×683.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9606″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1024×683.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-300×200.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1536×1024.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_2048/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-2048×1366.jpg 2048w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-895×597.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-685×457.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-210×140.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_150/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-150×100.jpg 150w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_126/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-126×84.jpg 126w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1462/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1462×975.jpg 1462w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1971/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1971×1314.jpg 1971w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1024×683.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1024×683.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9606″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1024×683.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-300×200.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1536×1024.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_2048/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-2048×1366.jpg 2048w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-895×597.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-685×457.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-210×140.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_150/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-150×100.jpg 150w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_126/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-126×84.jpg 126w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1462/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1462×975.jpg 1462w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1971/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0162-1971×1314.jpg 1971w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></figure><p>Bhaktapur has its own significance, culture, traditions, festivals, and architecture, and is often referred to as a living museum. There are many attractive historical buildings in Bhaktapur Durbar Square, and the Dattatreya Temple in Dattatreya Square is one of a kind.&nbsp;</p><p>Originally built in 1427 by King Yaksha Malla, supposedly using timber from a single tree. The three-story temple is raised above the ground on a brick and terracotta base and is decorated with numerous erotic carvings. The front porch, which is slightly out of place, was added later. It honors the composite deity Dattatreya, a personification of Lord Shiva, Vishnu, and Brahma.&nbsp;</p><p>Located to the east of Bhaktapur Durbar Square and Taumadhi Square, Dattatreya Temple is a circular (mandala-styled) temple and is renowned for being the lone shrine in Dattatreya Square. The temple is guarded by statues of the two Malla wrestlers, Jayamal and Phattu, who also guard the Nyatapola temple in Taumadhi Square. A stone pillar stands in front of the temple, on top of which is a carving of kneeling Garuda.</p><p>Dattatreya Square is not as busy as other squares but has its own unique beauty surrounded by a few other major and minor temples. The walk from Durbar Square is interesting, with many historic features to look at. Old people singing on the temple grounds; children playing in the courtyards; local cuisine; and a relaxed atmosphere bring character and diversity to your photos too.</p> Fri, 02 Sep 2022 06:51:13 +0000 Rubita Thapa
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https://www.insidehimalayas.com/a-photographers-guide-to-kathmandu-valley/
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More to Solukhumbu than Mount Everest https://www.insidehimalayas.com/more-to-solukhumbu-than-mount-everest/
https://www.insidehimalayas.com/?p=9511
<p>Most people identify the district of Solukhumbu with Mount Everest. This is the district where the Everest Region or Khumbu area lies. The northern part of the district also borders China. Everest sits along that border, with its north face accessed from the Chinese side.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><p>Solu on the other hand, is the area south of Lukla and is largely ignored by tourists. This is where the original route up into the Everest area can still be trekked from Jiri. The former path was used by Sir Edmund Hilary and expeditions to Everest before the airport at Lukla was built in 1964 under Hillary’s supervision. It is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful areas of Nepal.</p><p>I first visited Salleri, the district headquarters of Solukhumbu in 2005 when I arrived to see a school in Gunsa, a village a few hours walk from there. One of the schools supported by Doug Scott’s British charity, Community Action Nepal, where I accompanied some volunteers who were going to spend a few months helping the school and a nearby heath post. A group of us flew to Phaplu Airport in one of Yeti Airlines’ little 18 seater Twin Otters. At that time there was still no road going there and Salleri could only be reached on foot or by air.</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1024×768.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9512″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1024×768.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-300×225.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1536×1152.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-895×671.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-685×514.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-210×158.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_133/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-133×100.jpg 133w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_112/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-112×84.jpg 112w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1300×975.jpg 1300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1600/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6.jpg 1600w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1024×768.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1024×768.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9512″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1024×768.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-300×225.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1536×1152.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-895×671.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-685×514.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-210×158.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_133/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-133×100.jpg 133w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_112/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-112×84.jpg 112w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6-1300×975.jpg 1300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1600/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-6.jpg 1600w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”><figcaption>View from Salleri towards Dudhkundha and Numbur [Photo: Marianne<br>Heredge]</figcaption></figure><p>After spending a couple of days at the school, it was time to return to Kathmandu and so I set off on foot to Jiri along a route that several teachers at the school assured me took them just three days. Not taking into account how much slower I would be walking, I did make it to Jiri in three days.&nbsp;</p><p>On the first day I walked 12 hours to Lamjura Pass (3,530m); 10 hours the following day to Bhandar (2,200m); and finally an ‘easy’ 8 hour day to Jiri where I caught a bus the following morning to Kathmandu. From then on, I resolved never to believe a Nepali estimate of hiking times ever again. I have always found that adding 50% to any estimate of walking times works very well for me. It took me a week for my legs to recover!&nbsp;</p><p>A few months later in March 2006, I returned to Salleri to try out the newly proposed Pikey Peak trekking route that was being developed by the Tourism for Rural Poverty Alleviation Programme (TRPAP), a project supported by UNDP, DFID, SNV and GTZ. This 5 year project was set up to promote tourism in several poorer areas adjacent to famous tourist areas in Nepal. In the lower Solukhumbu area, they proposed a six or seven day trek to Pikey Peak and some shorter treks to Dudhkhunda and around parts of the original Jiri-Lukla trail (Nunthala-Taksindu). As this was during the Maoist Insurgency, few tourists were visiting Nepal. However, whilst this meant problems for locals, apart from demands for ‘donations,’ foreign tourists were usually left unhindered. Almost finished in their work, TRPAP were more than happy for me to test out their routes and give them feedback.&nbsp;</p><p>With a local porter, I followed the circuit from Salleri they were proposing. There was still some snow and the rhododendrons were blooming. TRPAP had done a good job training locals at the little guest houses along the way. However, at the village where I had visited the school the year before, there was no accommodation. Thankfully, the nurses at the healthpost remembered me and were happy to put me up for the night. Later I pointed out to TRPAP how it did not make sense to have to carry a tent for just one night, so the route no longer passes Gunsa. Now there are a few more lodges and several possible routes coming from different directions, depending on how much time you have available. Pattale, on the road now going to Salleri is a good starting point if you fancy a shorter trek.&nbsp;</p><p>Locally Pikey Peak (4,065m) is referred to as a ‘danda’ or hill. It’s all relative as this ‘hill’ is not much less high than Mont Blanc (4,807m). Coming from Pattale, it is a fairly gradual climb to the lodges at the Pikey Peak ‘Base Camp’, where a short path takes you to the top. Coming down on the other side however, it is steeper.&nbsp;</p><p>From the top of Pikey Peak, you can see eight of Nepal’s eight-thousanders from one place. It was a favourite of Sir Edmund Hillary after he climbed it during the walk-in to Everest on his 1953 expedition. On a clear day you can see from Dhaulagiri in the west to Kanchenjunga in the east with everything in-between: Annapurna, Manaslu, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse and other eight-thousanders playing hide and seek behind lesser but nearer peaks like the elegant summit of Mount Numbur, right in front standing tall above Mount Karyolung. It is probably one of my favourite treks in Nepal. More recently I was delighted to show it off to a Nepali friend who has a trekking agency in Kathmandu and was not familiar with the route.</p><p>Once back in Salleri after going up Pikey Peak, I immediately headed to Junbesi to check out TRPAP’s Dudhkunda trek. About two hours from Junbesi is the impressive Thupten Choling Monastery, said to be the largest in Nepal with more than 500 monks and nuns (the number fluctuates). It was founded by HH Trulshik Rinpoche (d.2011), a teacher of the Dalai Lama and 33rd reincarnation of Terton Donak Lingpa, a famous spiritual master. Trulshik Rinpoche settled in the Khumbu after fleeing Tibet in 1959, staying at various monasteries for a time, in the hope of returning to Rongbuk Monastery in Tibet. Finally, in 1968, he built Thupten Choling near Junbesi on land that was donated. He continued to believe that he would soon return to Tibet, so the monastery was not built to last. By the 1990s it was deteriorating and reconstruction work began in 2001. When I passed in 2006, work was still in progress. Damaged by the 2015 earthquake, it has since been repaired.</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1024×768.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9516″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1024×768.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-300×225.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1536×1152.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-895×671.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-685×514.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-210×158.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_133/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-133×100.jpg 133w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_112/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-112×84.jpg 112w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1300×975.jpg 1300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1600/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5.jpg 1600w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1024×768.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1024×768.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9516″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1024×768.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-300×225.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1536×1152.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-895×671.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-685×514.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-210×158.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_133/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-133×100.jpg 133w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_112/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-112×84.jpg 112w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5-1300×975.jpg 1300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1600/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-5.jpg 1600w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”><figcaption>The finishing touches to the reconstructed Thupten Choling Monastery. [Photo: Marianne<br>Heredge]</figcaption></figure><p>I did not stay at Thupten Choling as it was just an hour or so further to Phungmoche, where there is a monastery that’s perched on a huge rock. I spent the night here, joining the monks for their meals and prayers in the evening.</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9520″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4.jpg 1200w” sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-768×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9520″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-4.jpg 1200w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”><figcaption>Phungmoche monastery [Photo: Marianne<br>Heredge]</figcaption></figure><p>The following morning I set off along a deserted trail, passing by shepherds and their yak herds to where there is a small hermit cave. If I’d had a tent, I could have continued to Dudhkunda (4,592m), a further few days’ trek further. Here the lake is revered and pilgrims believe a dip in its milky (dudh means milk in Nepali) waters absolves you of your sins and makes your wishes come true.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><p>Once back in Salleri, I tested out the third trek suggested by TRPAP. I followed the path to Chaylsa, where with the support of the US and Switzerland, one of the first Tibetan Refugee Settlements was built in the early 1960s. Continuing to Kaku, Basa, back through Nunthala and Taksindu before returning to Salleri, this was a beautiful four day trek. I even made it back to Salleri in time to see the Saturday weekly bazaar.&nbsp;</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9524″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3.jpg 1200w” sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-768×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9524″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-3.jpg 1200w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”><figcaption>Salleri Saturday bazaar [Photo: Marianne<br>Heredge]</figcaption></figure><p>On my most recent visit in May 2022, I came to visit some families who are working with Community Homestay Network to offer guests the opportunity to sample life in Salleri and enjoy some of the local attractions of the area. Although it is Solukhumbu’s district headquarters, it is still a small town. It is strung out along a main street with little shops and low-rise buildings and feels more like a village. It takes just half an hour to walk down from the top of the main street to the other end of the town. It&nbsp; just takes a few minutes to walk either up or down into the forest or fields on either side. The main street is narrow and quite steep, discouraging all but the very occasional vehicle. Vehicles arriving from Kathmandu stop briefly at Neue Bazaar’s ‘Zero Point’ by the marketplace before driving up along the bypass to Phaplu and continuing as far as Junbesi. The road still has not made it across the high Lamjura Pass to meet the road coming from Jiri on the other side.&nbsp;</p><p>At 2,338m I’d forgotten how cold it can get even in May. While in Kathmandu it was 28°, here it was no more than 18°.&nbsp; In the winter it often snows here and you can see snow capped mountains.&nbsp;</p><p>Salleri’s Saturday weekly market is one of the most important in the area and draws villagers from all around. Now with the road, they are able to come in a matter of an hour or so rather than a day or so. Nele Bazaar, just a couple of hours walk away, also has a delightful weekly market, held on Tuesdays.&nbsp;</p><p>As well as Salleri’s monastery, there are several more on the way to Chaylsa’s Thubten Shedrup Ling Monastery. I was happy to see that Jhaylsa Monastery, the nearest one, not more than an hour away, had been repaired by Indian engineers after the 2015 earthquake. New accommodation had to be built as the original building behind the gompa was damaged beyond repair.&nbsp; Talking to some of the young Sherpa monks here, I came to find out that they had come from as far away as Dharan and Itahari.&nbsp; Next to Jyasha Gompa there is a new monastery that had been built very recently.</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9528″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2.jpg 1200w” sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-768×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9528″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-2.jpg 1200w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”><figcaption>Jhyalsa Monastery, one of several in the area. [Photo: Marianne<br>Heredge]</figcaption></figure><p>One of my most favourite villages to visit, Chaylsa is a beautiful place. The monastery here was initially founded for the refugees who came from Tibet after 1959. In the late 1990s, the Tibetan government in exile asked Kopan Monastery to take over its care and management. A senior monk from Kopan who is also the abbot of the monastery takes care of young monks between the age of 10 and 23. Several of them have gone on to Sera Monastery in South India to continue their studies. Though damaged, the monastery has been lovingly restored and I was relieved to see the old frescoes by the entrance had survived intact. Chaylsa’s original carpet factory that had been turned into a community lodge however had been damaged. Although now it no longer offers accommodation there is still a little restaurant where you can drink salt tea and eat Tibetan soup among other snacks.</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9532″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1.jpg 1200w” sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-768×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9532″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/unnamed-1.jpg 1200w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”><figcaption>Chaylsa’s Thubten Shedrup Ling Monastery. [Photo: Marianne<br>Heredge]</figcaption></figure><p>Continuing up through the village, there is a viewpoint at the top of a hill that offers views of Everest (8,849 m), Dudhkunda (4,592m), Numbur (6,958m) and Pikey Peak (4,065m). The following day, I visited the new International Mountain Research/ Training Centre in Garma. This is a very nice hike from Salleri along a rough road that’s little more than a track. This then joins the road from Salleri to Deusa, a village about 6 hours walk from Salleri. (Eventually this road will reach Lukla.) In its extensive grounds, the Centre has recently built Nepal’s tallest artificial climbing wall (20m) that is carved on the back of a giant yeti statue.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><p>On the other side of Salleri just beyond the end of Phaplu Airport’s runway is Chiwang Monastery, one of the oldest in the district. Built in 1935 by the legendary Sange Lama of Phaplu, Chiwang Gompa is one of three in Solukhumbu that plays host to the Mani Rimdu festival of Nepal celebrated every year during the 10th month of the Sherpa calendar (around the 3rd week of November).&nbsp;</p><p>Masked dancers perform for hours in an elaborate ritualistic telling of the story of Buddhism’s triumph over Bon, Tibet’s ancient animist religion. The drama is lit by the full moon by which each Mani Rimdu is timed. Performing Lamas (monks) wear beautifully crafted papier maché masks and intricately woven brocade costumes. On the first day of the festival the monks act out elaborate prayer rituals before embarking on the story itself on the second day. On the final day, Sherpas who have gathered for the ceremonies join with the local villagers to dance the night away.&nbsp;</p><p>Over the years, I have kept returning time after time to Salleri and the surrounding area. I have walked many times from Jiri (taking about four and a half days).&nbsp; I have seen the road come from Kathmandu which at first was a very rough track, where invariably jeeps would get stuck in the mud. Now a black-top, even during the monsoon, Salleri is accessible. For several years there was no road bridge over the Sunkosi River. Everyone had to take all their luggage and cross on a footbridge, catching the jeeps waiting on the other side to complete their journey. Finally in 2014, after more than a decade of construction, the Sunkosi Bridge at Ghurmi was completed, reducing the journey time by at least a couple of hours. Now, it takes seven to eight hours to reach Salleri from Kathmandu by jeep.&nbsp;</p><p>Since the end of the Maoist Insurgency when all road-building and construction projects came to a standstill, roads have been built everywhere, connecting villages all over the country. Though hated by the tourism industry wanting to safeguard trekking, the roads have been a boon for villagers who now can easily transport goods to the market, and can travel more easily to hospitals or Kathmandu. It is a huge improvement from four-and-a-half days on foot.&nbsp;</p><h3><strong>Getting there:</strong></h3><p><strong>Jeep: </strong>Jeeps run daily from Chabhil Chowk leaving early in the morning. To book tickets, I usually ask around in Thamel at one of many trekking shops run by locals from Salleri and the surrounding area. It should take about 8 hours to reach Salleri. Some jeeps go to Nele Bazaar or to Deusa or otherwise you can change at Salleri.&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Bus: </strong>Buses also go to Salleri but take much longer and can be much less comfortable.</p><p><strong>Hike: </strong>Alternatively, if you want to hike in, buses go to Jiri and beyond. It is probably best to take the bus to Bandar to start walking from there, via the Lamjura Pass and Junbesi.&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Fly: </strong>&nbsp;The flight duration is just 30 minutes operated by Tara Air and Summit Air. Flights are scheduled in the morning as by midday the airport is usually too windy for the planes to land.</p> Fri, 05 Aug 2022 10:34:27 +0000 Marianne
en
text/html
https://www.insidehimalayas.com/more-to-solukhumbu-than-mount-everest/
Adventure
Nepal
nepal trekking
solukhumbu


Understanding the Kumari https://www.insidehimalayas.com/understanding-the-kumari/
https://www.insidehimalayas.com/?p=9488
<p>The Kumari or the ‘Living Goddess’ is one of Nepal’s most intriguing cultural and ancestral traditions. If you visit the country, it’s fascinating to witness the unique custom of worshipping a young prepubescent girl.</p><p>The literal translation of Kumari is ‘virgin,’ but Kumari also derives from the Sanskrit word ‘Kaumarya,’ meaning ‘princess.’</p><p>Both Hindus and Buddhists worship the Kumari. Buddhists consider her as the personification of the supreme female deity Vajradevi. Hindus worship her as the incarnation of the Goddess ‘Durga’ and even a manifestation of Taleju Bhawani.&nbsp;</p><p>There’s not just one Living Goddess in Nepal. There are around 10 Living Goddesses in Kathmandu Valley. All are considered goddesses and live in their own homes following some rituals. However, only the one living in Durbar Square in Kathmandu (the Kumari Chhen – the House of the Living Goddess) is the Royal Kumari, and considered to be the most important one.</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1696/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_0065-scaled.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9497″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1696/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_0065-scaled.jpg 1696w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_199/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_0065-199×300.jpg 199w” sizes=”(max-width: 1696px) 100vw, 1696px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_0065-scaled.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1696/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_0065-scaled.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9497″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1696/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_0065-scaled.jpg 1696w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_199/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_0065-199×300.jpg 199w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1696px) 100vw, 1696px”></figure><h3><strong>Kumari – the legend</strong></h3><p>The Kumari is worshipped by Nepal’s Newari people in a tradition stretching back in the Kathmandu Valley to the 17th century. It is said that the last king of the Malla Dynasty used to meet with the Goddess Taleju. The Goddess’s request was that nobody knew about it. The queen secretly found out about her husband’s meetings with Taleju, so the Goddess vowed never to meet the king again. Nepal’s people needed the Goddess’s protection, so she told the king to find a virgin girl from the Shakya family. It has been believed that the Goddess has since manifested as the Living Goddess in the little girl’s body.</p><h3><strong>Kumari – the selection process</strong></h3><p>The selection process of a Kumari is intense and involves a lot of intricate details.</p><p>The caretakers of the Kumari usually start looking for a new four-five-year little girl a few years before the current Kumari they take care of is expected to have her first menstruation. The caretaker of the Kumari house, the head astrologer, and priests conduct the selection process. They are required to check on various qualities of potential Kumari candidates before declaring one of them as a new Living Goddess.</p><p>Here are some of the numerous aspects and essential requirements that a little Nepalese girl must check to become a Kumari:</p><ul><li>Her Jaata (horoscope, zodiac birth chart) matches the one of the national leader</li><li>She must come from a Shakya family, the an upper echelon Newar caste in the Kathmandu Valley; however, other Kumaris in the valley – except for the royal Kumari, may also be a girl from the Bajracharya family</li><li>Three generations of her family members must be within the same caste</li><li>She shouldn’t have shed a single drop of blood prior (no cuts, no injuries, no illness)</li><li>She shouldn’t have lost any of her teeth</li><li>She must match the 32 qualities of perfection of the goddesses in the Hindu religion, e.g., as physical appearances, she must have a chest like a lion, the thighs like a deer, and the eyelashes like a cow</li><li>Some other qualities must include: her eyes color must be black, she should have twenty-two teeth, a body like a banyan tree, and her voice should be clear</li><li>Furthermore, she has to pass more rigorous tests to ensure that she indeed possesses the qualities needed to be a living vessel of the Durga Goddess: the future Kumari has to walk without fear through a courtyard filled with sacrificed buffaloes and dancing mask men; additionally, after that, she must spend a night alone in a room with the ritually slaughtered goats and buffaloes without showing fear or crying</li><li>If she passes the requirements mentioned above, the last test is to pick up the belongings of the previous Kumari</li></ul><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_683/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-683×1024.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9489″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_683/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-683×1024.jpg 683w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-200×300.jpg 200w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1707/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-scaled.jpg 1707w” sizes=”(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-683×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_683/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-683×1024.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9489″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_683/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-683×1024.jpg 683w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-200×300.jpg 200w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1707/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/08/DSC_2245-scaled.jpg 1707w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 683px) 100vw, 683px”></figure><h3><strong>Kumari – her duties and rights as a Living Goddess</strong></h3><p>For the period of being a Kumari, she is not allowed to step on the floor, and she can go outside of her residence only on special occasions, like the Indra Jatra festival. On these occasions, her caretakers (a different family than her birth family) carry her everywhere as she shouldn’t touch the ground.</p><p>As a Living Goddess, she must follow specific rules and traditions. For example, she must always wear a red dress with full make-up, red being the color of the Goddess. She sits on her throne, and people visit her to receive blessings and good fortune. It is believed that Kumari’s blessing sustains the peace and prosperity of the country, and she protects the nation from evil with her goddess power.</p><p>In the past, the Living Goddess was not allowed to get an education as it was believed that she knew everything. Nowadays though, she’s allowed to have a private tutor to ease her integration back into society after being replaced by another Kumari. She can also access Internet facilities, books, and papers and attend national exams under special supervision.</p><p>Also, her family members were not allowed to visit her very often, and she could only play with the children of her caretakers from the same caste. However, according to human rights, it is considered that she was deprived of various child rights. Nowadays, these beliefs are reconsidered, and she can meet and play with other family members and friends.</p><h3><strong>Kumari – life after being a goddess</strong></h3><p>The Kumari is considered divine until her first bleed; this usually means her first menstruation. Or she may also immediately lose the title if she gets ill or suffers a cut, minor scratches, or other blood loss.</p><p>Another belief that impacted Kumari’s life after rebecoming a normal girl was that she shouldn’t get married after she’s dethroned, with myths that claimed that her husband might die soon. This belief is not available anymore, so she’s even encouraged to get married after their ‘goddess mandate’ is over.</p> Tue, 02 Aug 2022 10:03:59 +0000 Iuliana Marchian
en
text/html
https://www.insidehimalayas.com/understanding-the-kumari/
Culture & Tradition
Mythology
Nepal
Kumari
Newari culture


Ama Dablam Unconquered https://www.insidehimalayas.com/ama-dablam-unconquered/
https://www.insidehimalayas.com/?p=9407
<p>In spring 2019 I was allowed to take part in an international expedition to Ama Dablam. Undoubtedly one of the most iconic and beautiful mountains in the world, Ama Dablam is a landmark of the Khumbu region and all of Nepal. While its standing height of 6814m may not have the size of other giants in Khumbu like Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, or Makalu, it is still certainly one of the most photographed mountains in the region. Ama Dablam is prominently visible from Namche Bazar and the <a href=”https://royalmt.com.np/experiences/everest-base-camp-trek/”>Everest Base Camp Trail</a> and is just as scenic and exhilarating as any other peak the region has to offer.</p><p>Our goal in spring 2019 was to get to the summit via the normal route, i.e. through the southwest ridge. In the spring season, there would be fewer teams on the mountain than in the autumn season, and hence the trails would be much quieter. But this absence of mountaineering traffic is not without reason — the weather during the spring is more unstable and the volatile snow storms make the ascent more complicated than later in autumn.&nbsp;</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1024×682.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9413″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1024×682.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-300×200.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1536×1024.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-895×597.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-685×457.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-210×140.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_150/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-150×100.jpg 150w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_126/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-126×84.jpg 126w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1463/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1463×975.jpg 1463w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1811/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy.jpg 1811w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1024×682.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1024×682.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9413″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1024×682.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-300×200.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1536×1024.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-895×597.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-685×457.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-210×140.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_150/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-150×100.jpg 150w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_126/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-126×84.jpg 126w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1463/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy-1463×975.jpg 1463w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1811/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3719-Copy.jpg 1811w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></figure><p>At the beginning of April, we flew from Kathmandu to Lukla. First, we hiked to the stunning <a href=”https://royalmt.com.np/experiences/everest-chola-pass-trek/”>Gokyo Valley</a> passing through Namche Bazar for better acclimatization. On a freezing but crystal-clear morning, we walked up to Gokyo Ri, a popular vantage point with spectacular 360° views of the mountains and glaciers of the Khumbu.</p><p>We then crossed the Cho La Pass and made our way towards the Ama Dablam Base Camp, located at about 4600m. We settled into our cozy little tents that would be our home for the next few weeks. The very next day a <em>Lama </em>(Tibetan monk) came from the valley to base camp in order to hold a traditional <em>Puja</em>. In this ceremony, permission is obtained from the gods to climb the mountain. During the puja, expedition members and their equipment are blessed. It is an essential part of Himalayan expeditions and is of paramount importance, especially for the Sherpas.&nbsp;</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_682/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-682×1024.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9418″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_682/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-682×1024.jpg 682w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-200×300.jpg 200w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-1024×1536.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-895×1343.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_666/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-666×1000.jpg 666w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_140/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-140×210.jpg 140w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_67/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-67×100.jpg 67w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_56/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-56×84.jpg 56w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_650/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-650×975.jpg 650w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_876/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-876×1314.jpg 876w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1207/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-rotated.jpg 1207w” sizes=”(max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-682×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_682/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-682×1024.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9418″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_682/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-682×1024.jpg 682w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_200/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-200×300.jpg 200w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-1024×1536.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-895×1343.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_666/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-666×1000.jpg 666w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_140/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-140×210.jpg 140w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_67/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-67×100.jpg 67w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_56/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-56×84.jpg 56w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_650/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-650×975.jpg 650w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_876/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-876×1314.jpg 876w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1207/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3816-Copy-rotated.jpg 1207w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px”></figure><p>After a few days at base camp, we began our rotations up the mountain to bring gear to the high camps and to acclimate our bodies to the thin air. I first climbed up to camp 1 at 5800m, took a long break there, and descended back down to base camp later in the afternoon. The next day I and the rest of our team would go back to camp 1, this time to spend the night there. In this way, we adapted our bodies more and more to the altitude. The sunset we got to witness from camp 1 was one of the highlights of the expedition — the interplay of clouds, mountains, and the setting sun was an unforgettable sight.&nbsp;</p><p>After camp 1, Lhakpa, one of our climbing Sherpas, and I wanted to advance towards camp 2 at 6100m. This stage is the most technically demanding of the entire route, parts of the way are very exposed and steep. The final section just before camp 2 is particularly tough: the “Yellow Tower”, a vertical, partly overhanging rock passage, required a lot of effort to safely navigate at an altitude of 6000m.&nbsp;</p><p>At the top of the Yellow Tower is camp 2, a campsite that can hardly be surpassed in terms of exposure. Space here is very limited and the camp is notoriously crammed with a sparse number of tents for various teams, especially in the busy autumn season. Luckily for us, when Lhakpa and I got there, we were the only ones. But the weather was closing in, and we could only afford a short rest before commencing the descent to base camp.&nbsp;</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1024×682.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9422″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1024×682.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-300×200.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1536×1024.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-895×597.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-685×457.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-210×140.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_150/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-150×100.jpg 150w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_126/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-126×84.jpg 126w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1463/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1463×975.jpg 1463w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1811/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy.jpg 1811w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1024×682.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1024×682.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9422″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1024/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1024×682.jpg 1024w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_300/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-300×200.jpg 300w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1536/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1536×1024.jpg 1536w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-895×597.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-685×457.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_210/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-210×140.jpg 210w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_150/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-150×100.jpg 150w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_126/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-126×84.jpg 126w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1463/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy-1463×975.jpg 1463w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1811/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/DSF3862-Copy.jpg 1811w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”></figure><p>The next day was a rest day at base camp, dedicated to preparing us for the upcoming summit push. The gears were checked again, batteries were recharged, strength was gathered and the excellent food from the base camp chefs enjoyed. Then the time had finally come for the summit push. Ideally, we would spend a night at camp 1, continue to camp 2 the next day, and then on to the summit. Thanks to the rotations, I felt reasonably fit and acclimatized to the altitude.&nbsp;</p><p>The way to camp 1 was familiar from previous rotations and quickly mastered. Again, the sunset was spectacular, and hundreds of photos and selfies were taken. The trail from camp 1 to camp 2 was quickly navigated without incident. In the evening tea and noodle soup were prepared. We retired early ensuring that we got some rest before we would start summit day at 2 a.m. At this altitude and the uncomfortable temperatures, deep sleep was out of the question anyway.&nbsp;</p><figure class=”wp-block-image size-large”><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”wp-image-9430″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1248/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy.jpg 1248w” sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-768×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-768×1024.jpg” alt class=”lazyload wp-image-9430″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1248/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_092414-Copy.jpg 1248w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”></figure><p>Our Sherpas wanted to go ahead, they carried ropes with them, since the last stretch before the summit had not yet been fixed with ropes. No one had been to the summit this year hence there were no worn tracks in the snow to facilitate our climb.&nbsp;</p><p>At around 2:30 a.m., about 30 minutes after the rope fixing team, we set off from camp 2, trekking in the dark. In the faint light of our headlamps and millions of stars in the sky, we made our way up the mountain, over the ridge. The route was daunting and everchanging. Sometimes more, sometimes less exposed.&nbsp;</p><p>I struggled with every step, slowly feeling weak from the thinning air and lack of sleep, maybe I was dehydrated as well. The climb had continually been growing more difficult. At sunrise at about 6200m, I decided with a heavy heart to turn back to camp 2. Arriving at camp 2, I received news through the radio that our Sherpas, who wanted to fix the last meters of rope on the mountain, had also decided to turn around at about 6600m. Older snow that had frozen over under a lot of fresh snow slowed them down. There was no point to continue in such dangerous conditions, and eventually, my teammates also gave up their attempt at the summit.&nbsp;</p><figure class=”wp-block-gallery columns-1 is-cropped”><ul class=”blocks-gallery-grid”><li class=”blocks-gallery-item”><figure><noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-768×1024.jpg” alt data-id=”9438″ data-full-url=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1248/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy.jpg” data-link=”https://www.insidehimalayas.com/?attachment_id=9438″ class=”wp-image-9438″ srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1248/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy.jpg 1248w” sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”></noscript><img src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lqip,ret_wait/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-768×1024.jpg” data-src=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-768×1024.jpg” alt data-id=”9438″ data-full-url=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1248/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy.jpg” data-link=”https://www.insidehimalayas.com/?attachment_id=9438″ class=”lazyload wp-image-9438″ data-srcset=”https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_768/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-768×1024.jpg 768w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_225/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-225×300.jpg 225w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1152/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-1152×1536.jpg 1152w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_895/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-895×1193.jpg 895w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_685/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-685×913.jpg 685w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_158/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-158×210.jpg 158w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_75/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-75×100.jpg 75w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_63/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-63×84.jpg 63w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_731/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-731×975.jpg 731w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_986/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy-986×1314.jpg 986w, https://sp-ao.shortpixel.ai/client/q_lossless,ret_img,w_1248/https://www.insidehimalayas.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/IMG_20190422_101737-Copy.jpg 1248w” data-sizes=”(max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px”></figure></li></ul></figure><p>In the meantime, I was resting at camp 2 with warm soup and tea and soon began to feel better again. Sometime later, the others arrived at camp 2, as did the Sherpas. It was still early in the day, and I decided to descend all the way to base camp. Every now and then I needed to abseil steep passages, constantly reminding myself to remain 100% concentrated, knowing perfectly well that most mountain accidents happen on the descent when strength and concentration dwindle.&nbsp;</p><p>I reached base camp in the late afternoon and was welcomed by our cooks with hot tea and a delicious meal. My disappointment about not reaching the summit slowly subsided and I was able to enjoy this magnificent mountain environment one last time. I felt happy for the many experiences on the trip, for the things I learned on the mountain, and for the new friends I made. Taking part in this adventure, in the middle of the Himalayas, in my favorite country Nepal, and sitting back safe and sound at base camp, I felt a deep sense of gratitude and satisfaction.&nbsp;</p><p>“Getting to the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory” – is a popular trekking quote by mountaineer Ed Viesturs. The mountain is not going anywhere anytime soon, and one thing I know for sure: I will be back to Ama Dablam.</p> Thu, 21 Jul 2022 07:06:35 +0000 Tobias Pantel
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